How to make 18th century stays for under 25 dollars

As you may know my current studies are in Textile conservation and for my master's research project I am working on 18th century silk brocades and more specifically on the subject of textile reuse in that century. I had the idea of working on my own 18th century ensemble made from second-hand materials that I could wear to my end of year exam in June 2018.

I am a cheapskate in all aspects of my life, I love a good bargain. I just cannot pay full price for textiles, clothes or laces especially if a bit of time and digging can get me something just as nice at the thrift store.  

The first element I decided to work on was the stays as they will give the correct silhouette to the outfit. I wanted to stay at a total cost of under 30 USD.

It was going to be my first big sewing project in a year so I decided to buy a pattern to help me out. Ideally it would have been so cool to get the american duchess stays pattern but I don't live in the US and don't have any way of getting it. So I went with the Butterick Pattern B4254 that I bought for 13 USD online. It has patterns for 18th century stays, back or back and front lacing;  but also has a pattern for a more Victorian style corset.

I decided to go for the back lacing stays that you see in the upper left side of the pattern package.

I was a size 20 from the measurements on the package but I would recommend going one or two sizes smaller otherwise you won't have the right cinching effect.

 My measurements:
-102 cm Bust
-85 cm Waist
-111 cm Hips

I made a mock up that I tried in my duct tape mannequin. (Hoping to do a blog post about that next).
For the outer fabric, I found This creme and green floral fabric that I bought at a thrift store for 3 USD.

I modified the pattern:
-I reduced the center front panel by 4 cm
-Lengthened them by 6 cm
-Modified the back pieces into more rectangular shape.

The outer fabric and interlining of white cotton fabric was then cut out and basted together. 

Then the pieces were assembled.

The process is repeated with the lining fabric

The lining is placed on the patterned fabric, wrong sides together and basted all together. 

The boning channels were then traced with chalk. 

I used big zip ties (33cm long by 9mm wide) as the boning. Cheaper than usual plastic boning.I needed about 20 zip ties to bone the entire stays. I inserted them between the lining and the interfacing, floral layers. 

Once all the boning inserted, I sewed all around about 2 cm from the edges. 

I had never done hand bound eyelets before so I was a bit too nervous to try it out on my stays, so I decided to do metal eyelets for longevity. As total historical accuracy is not needed for this project. 

The binding was a long process. Done in olive green bias tape that I was lucky enough to find in a second hand shop. 

Here is is finished result. I am so happy with my first ever stays!

Total cost: 25 USD!

-Pattern: 13 USD

-20 zip ties for boning: 3 USD

-Cord for lacing: 1USD

-Creme and white patterned fabric: 3USD

-Lining and interfacing (cotton sheet): 2 USD

-Green bias tape: 3 USD

My next project was a proper shift on a budget that I will write my next blog post about. Thanks for reading!